first few weeks at site: of life and loss

15 April 2014

I’m finally starting to get used to walking past two or three cows (bulluk) on my daily walks to and from the water pump. Whenever I want to take a bucket shower (swim), wash my clothes, wash dishes, cook or simply drink water, I need to take a stroll past a few bulluk, through the coconut plantation and over to the pump with my two little black buckets. After a good little arm work out I head back the way I came and deposit my water into the appropriate container for that moment’s activities. Although I’m not exactly when dry season is supposed to start in Vanuatu, it has definitely hit Northwest Malekula in full force and in perfect sync with the completion of my garden…

Last week I rounded up four of my nephews (I think? My family is so big and the relationships still confuse me considerably…), ages 11-13—Fremton, Niki, Alex and Yono—to help me clear the area that would become my garden. With bush knives in hand we set out into the bush, about a 5-7 minute walk from my house, to an area my Dadi has designated for my garden. The area is about the same size as my house and when we arrived it was vastly overgrown with vines and weeds. With no hesitation the boys cut down some branches and fastened them into picks. One boy wielded the pick, pulling back a cluster of vines as the second boy started hacking at the vines with the bush knife. I decided to find my own pick and work on a small area myself as the two pairs worked quickly as ever, clearing at least double the amount of space I had in the same amount of time. A couple hours later the area was clear of large vines and it was time for a small rest (spel) before continuing. 

We headed down to the beach (solwota) for a swim and I set my hammock up overlooking the hundreds (maybe thousands?) of miles of ocean that were in front of me—honestly, a rather daunting feeling. It’s odd realizing now that I have never experienced a similar feeling when looking out into the ocean at South or State Beach at home even though those areas also have no other land for hundreds of miles. I guess that’s what comes with the comfort of home—as well as knowing that Marthas Vineyard hasn’t had any tsunami warnings that I know of. Anyway, there I sat in my hammock working through book two of Game of Thrones for close up to two hours just relaxing and enjoying the breeze coming in with the waves. All I could think was that life is pretty sweet and I couldn’t be more thankful to have been lucky enough to be part of the mere 3% of Peace Corps Volunteers assigned to the South Pacific. Again, sorry to all you out there who are secretly hoping I’ll come back sooner than expected—not happening.

After our spel we set back out up into the bush to clear the area of weeds. We worked for another couple of hours before retiring until the next day. The next day the boys returned to keep weeding after school and finally, last Sunday, we planted my crops. Using only bush knives and a spade we made six beds for my tomatoes, bell peppers, chili peppers, basil, garlic, green onion and Chinese cabbage and then planted my island cabbage (essentially a mix between spinach and kale), cucumber, ginger and beans. In the afternoon we built a small fence around the beds in order to lay six large coconut leaves on top to give the poor little babes some shade from the strong sun. Now, since dry season is very, very real already, I go to the garden everyday after school to water my little babes so that hopefully within a few months I will be able to survive on my own vegetables. I definitely feel as though I have gained a child without much love and care I have to give my garden but it’s alright because having my own food is absolutely worth it.

Gaining this new child of mine came at the perfect time because unfortunately, on Saturday night, my little puppy Noa passed away. When I came back to Matanvat two weeks ago he was the only one left of his six brothers and sisters—they had all passed away (because of “too many mosquitoes” I am told). Noa had sores and mange all over his body and his ears were full of lice. I spent an hour picking out all of the lice and giving him a flea bath and a lice bath but alas, the little critters are just too persistent and abundant, there wasn’t much to be done. For the last two weeks I tried tirelessly to give him food but often he did not want to eat. He slept all day and was very frail. It broke my heart but I really hoped that if I kept trying he would be alright…until I returned from church on Saturday to see him sleeping all to soundlessly and motionlessly and my nephew Alex told me, “oh Noa hemi ded finish,” (oh, Noa is dead) with all the nonchallantness of the attitude towards animals we domesticate in the US receive in Vanuatu and much of the world.  I recently learned that the other dog Noa, the one named after the Peace Corps Volunteer and the one my Noa was named after, was killed last year when a student at the school threw a knife at him. I have officially decided that no more dogs should be named Noa. Luckily, Shaki is crazy as ever and I have enough on my hands with her and my garden.

Annnnd some more photos that are essential for creating at least a semi accurate picture of what my life is like these days:

There's quite a bit of space in my house so I set the goal of trying to make it as comfortable as possible. One step in this process was setting up my hammock inside to sleep in. After an accidental nap one sabbath I realized how comfortable it was and am now going to start sleeping it in regularly...maybe after awhile my thin mattress will look more appealing than it does now. 

This is my "smol haos" (small house) a.k.a where I swim (shower) and go to the toilet. At first I really thought it would be difficult getting adjusted to bucket showers and pooping in a hole but after only a few weeks I'm sure I'll be just fine. I like bucket showers because they conserve a good amount of water and its so hot I don't mind that the water is so cold. 

 Once you walk into my smol house you immediately walk into my swim haos (where I bucket shower). There are a couple shelves, one to hold my big bucket that I try to keep full of water to minimize last minute trips to the well before wanting to swim, and I've nailed a bunch of nails all over the place to serve as makeshift hangers. Setting up my house in Vanuatu really made me realize how much I enjoy making sure everything has its own place..

After walking through the swim haos you finally get to the main attraction...the pit! Now, somehow before coming to Vanuatu I didn't spend even one second thinking about where/how I would be going to the bathroom. Upon arrival at my site I was unsure how I felt about the pit toilet but now I don't know how I'll ever go back to sitting on a seat..its just more comfortable, more hygenic and even a great leg workout!

Lastly, this is where I hang my clothes to dry. I do laundry in the same bucket I use for swimming. Powdered laundry detergent and usually about four trips to the well later I have fresh smelling clothes ready to air dry.